Panasonic TC-P65VT60 3D Plasma HDTV Page 2

If you calibrate a set using the RGB output of a test pattern generator (thereby bypassing the decoder), then play back consumer sources (which are nearly always YCbCr), the image should nevertheless be correct—as long as the decoder is accurate. But on our VT60, this process produced a green shift in the picture. It was not obvious on all program material, but once spotted, it was hard to ignore. The solution was to recalibrate with a YCbCr source, which is what is usually done. This can usually cancel out the decoder error (assuming enough flexibility in the calibration controls). Using a YCC source for my calibration virtually eliminated the green shift.

913panatv2.rem.jpgWith this sorted out, the TCP65VT60 was a wonder. The colors were spectacular, whether subtle or with the brilliant palette of, say, Oz the Great and Powerful—a movie ravishing to look at but hard to love.

The VT60’s blacks were inky-deep, and (with rare exceptions) every bit as impressive as the blacks on the ZT60. The only difference I noticed was that the ZT60 sometimes had a little more pop than the VT60 even in the darkened room I use for my evaluations—likely because it is more resistant to reflections not only from the room but also within the panel itself. A bright area in an otherwise dark image, for example, might produce a slight diffusion of light in the space between the pixel panel and the front glass. As noted above, the VT60 has such a space, while the ZT60 and the Pioneer Kuros do not.

But both sets looked identical on the opening Kansas scenes in the new Oz movie referenced above—scenes in which there’s a 4:3 black-and-white image surrounded by black bars on all sides. The bars disappeared completely on both Panasonics in my darkened room, leaving that smaller image floating in space until it expands to the full screen width as Oscar (the Oz to be) descends into Oz in his balloon. This expansion, accompanied by a transition from black and white to color, looked as stunning on the VT60 as it did on the ZT60 when viewed in the dark at 8 feet or so from a 65-inch screen.

The blacks and shadow detail on the two Panasonics were so close that even a change of a single step in the setting of the Brightness control on either could alter the result. The characteristics of the two sets in the near-black region were slightly different, making it difficult to decide on their precise Brightness settings. I marginally preferred the ZT60 overall but wouldn’t argue with anyone who concludes that the subjective black levels and shadow detail of the two sets are identical.

913panatv2.rem2.jpgAnd how does the VT60 compare with my reference Pioneer PRO-141FD Kuro? The latter looked subtly better on some scenes, the VT60 on others (particularly on star fields, where the Kuro’s slight red shift—characteristic of its panel design—didn’t look quite right on the stars themselves despite its inky black background). But overall it was a virtual tie. And the VT60, like the ZT60, marginally beat the Kuro in sharpness. The ZT60 came out on top here, the VT60 next, and the Kuro last. But none of these sets looks soft. I’ll repeat here a comment I made in my ZT60 review: The Panasonics had roughly 150 hours on them at most during these comparisons; the four-year-old Pioneer had at least 3,000.

My 3D experiences with the VT60 were more limited than those with the ZT60, largely because there wasn’t much to choose from on that score. It depended more on the setup of the individual sets than on the sets themselves. My 3D comments on the ZT60 apply to the VT60 as well. Both do very well on 3D, falling short only in ultimate brightness—the latter an advantage held firmly by LCD.

Panasonic offers a compelling choice in top-quality plasmas. So will it be the ST60, VT60, or ZT60? I didn’t have the ST on hand here, but the measurements suggest that its black level, while not quite extending to the depths of the VT60 and ZT60, is equal or superior to even Panasonic’s 2012 flagship, the VT50.


As for the VT60 versus the ZT60, the choice will depend largely on your budget. I marginally prefer the ZT60—it’s crisper looking, with a bit more pop in mixed light and dark scenes. But these differences are not pronounced. Apart from the green shift noted earlier, which can be calibrated out, the TC-P65VT60 is a superb HDTV.

Samsuri's picture

I recently bought a 55VT60 here in Singapore, while making changes to the settings I realise that the HDTV is missing some 2D and 3D setting options such professional2 for 2D and custom for 3D. These options are missing totally on my new HDTV therefore i am not able to have the same setting as given here. I do however have the others options. What settings do you recomend for my HDTV in this case, thank you.

acpryor's picture

Hey! I love these reviews, they're so helpful.

My AV installer is recommending I go with the LG 60PN5700:

I was thinking of getting this Panasonic based on your reviews and I can't find a review of the LG. The Panny is more $, I can get the LG for $900. I don't know what to do since I can't see them side by side. This will be our primary TV in our family room, lots of windows with minimal light control during day.



tailwhip's picture

If you go into the Settings part of the menu you can find the switch to unlock the isfccc mode. Once you do the Pro modes will show up in the Picture Settings menu, where you select THX ect.
Now you will see the additional adjustments.

globus's picture

Hi there
I have a question regarding your W/B Detail adjustment
Obviously you are reffering to Panel Luminace Setting by splitting it on Mid and Hig but TV it self have option to set:
R Gain
G Gain
B Gain
R Cutoff
G Cutoff
B Cutoff
and in you settings you are giving only 1 number for each colour
W/B Detail Adjust. (2D)
Red –7
Green –1
Blue 14
Could you advise me how that should be set up?


Visions's picture

Hi there, thank you for a great review of the TV. It's spot on.

I'm a little confused about the listed settings could you explain to me.

Is the Mid and High referencing the high and low? on the tv the option goes first r/g/b high and r/g/b low, so I am not sure if I mixing up the two settings.

W/B Detail Adjust. (2D)
Mid High
Red –7 10
Green –1 4
Blue 14 –3

Are these the 3D settings, is 32D a typo? Same things I am not sure which is mid (high or low)

W/B Detail Adjust. (32D)
Mid High
Red –15 11
Green 0 0
Blue –6 –1

Given that I did possibly mixed up these settings completely I really like your adjustment. Thank you for posting it.

globus's picture

I also noticed that you are missing
Gamma Detail Adjustment
Input Signal Level
100 ?


cooloregon's picture

Mid = Low and High is High.

cooloregon's picture

Thanks for your VT60 calibration post. I have one question though, where is the 100 IRE setting for the Input Signal Level? As it is also missing in the ZT60 calibration post also. I left mine at the default setting of -0-.

shield's picture

R Gain:10
G Gain:4
B Gain:-3
R Cutoff:-7
G Cutoff:-1
B Cutoff:14

If you say mid and high.if i use this settings then i have too much blue in the blacks where you can check with AVS whats right.this or the other way around?