Dang, Life IS Good!
LG's 60PG70 plasma looked pretty amazing. I can't say if it's in Pioneer Kuro territory, but with a 30,000:1 claimed contrast ratio, there was little to fault. I asked one of LG's booth specialists to bring up the ISFccc calibration menu and he was able to do so without pressing 5432+Enter on the remote (sorry – inside joke for former CRT calibrators).
The problem was price. Too high? Don't know. Nobody could give me an answer on the 60 and 70 series plasmas that won't hit until Q2-Q3 '08. Until then, it's hard to get too excited.
Note to Laura and Jen: the picture on the screen was of Los Olivos, California, but by the time I got my camera out, it had started melding into something else.